Northern Ireland I: Omagh & Derry

Our first stop in Northern Ireland was the tiny village of Omagh. On August 15, 1998 a car bomb planted by the new incarnation of the IRA exploded there, killing 29 people (including a woman pregnant with twins and 9 children) and wounding hundreds of others. In the middle of the busy main street where the bomb went off is a plaque and small monument, but the real memorial is nearby in a park. For each of the victims there is a mirror perched atop a pole, constantly reflecting the sun. At the base of the poles is a reflection pool, and along one side is a stone monument with each victim's name, age, and hometown, along with an explanation and some thoughtful quotes. It's a really moving memorial for such a horrible tragedy. Sadly, it was not the first we would see.

We spent our first night in Northern Ireland in Derry (often referred to by Loyalists and Protestants as Londonderry; on many roadsigns the London part of Londonderry has been painted over or crossed out). Shortly after arriving at our hostel, we took a walking tour of the city with a local guide. Derry is split in half by the River Foyle, and at this stage the river provides a boundary between Catholic and Protestant communities. When looking down from the (well intact) remains of the old city walls, you get a very real idea of where people stand:

(Throughout my travels in Northern Ireland I came face-to-face with graphic murals dedicated to the ongoing struggles of each side, as well as their so-called martyrs. They are a shocking reminder of the incredible violence endured here for decades, and not very long ago.)

Though things are currently peaceful in Derry, there is lingering mistrust and resentment on behalf of those who bore witness to the preferential treatment given to one group over the other. (More on that when I talk about Belfast.)

Now, I'm sure it has occurred to at least one person reading this that there MUST be people in Ireland who are neither Catholic or Protestant, right? To answer your question, allow me to share a joke I was told while in Derry.

A young kid from North America visits Derry on his summer holidays and goes outside to look for some other kids to play with. After wandering around for a few minutes, some of the local kids pick up on the presence of someone new and wander over.

After exchanging names, one of the local kids immediately asks "the" question: "Are you a Catholic, or a Protestant?"

The visiting kid is taken aback by this question and stammers, "I-I'm a Jew!"

The local kids look at each other in complete puzzlement. Finally, the kid who asked the question smiles, nods and says, "Ok...but are you a Catholic Jew, or a Protestant Jew?"

And so it goes...